So you want to add some natural butters to your soap… Should you use refined, unrefined, food grade, cosmetic grade?? Let’s take a look at the options and spotlight two of my favorite and highly accessible butters: cocoa butter and Shea butter
What is Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter?
Cocoa butter and shea butter are two types of natural fats that are widely used in skincare products. In handmade soap cocoa butter and shea butter are often added to enhance lather, moisturizing properties, hardness, and sensory appeal.
Cocoa butter is a type of fat that comes from cocoa beans. It’s rich in antioxidants and is known for its deep hydration and skin healing properties.
Shea butter, is derived from the nuts of the shea tree. It’s packed with vitamins A and E and is known for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties.
- in soap, they provide a rich, creamy lather that feels luxurious on the skin. Both butters are high in fatty acids that help to create a dense, moisturizing foam.
- They have excellent moisturizing properties. Both cocoa butter and shea butter are emollients, meaning they can soften and soothe the skin. They also form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, helping to lock in moisture and prevent dryness.
- They add hardness to the soap. In cold process soap making, the ratio of hard to soft oils can affect the final product’s texture. Adding cocoa or shea butter can result in a firmer bar of soap.
- They contribute to the soap’s overall aesthetic. Cocoa butter gives soap a smooth, velvety texture, while shea butter can add a subtle, nutty scent.
And yes, you can use both in your formulation!
When choosing a butter, (or butters, because you can use more than one type of butter in your soap recipe) there are a few choices you’ll have: Refined vs Unrefinded and Cosmetic Grade vs. Food Grade.
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Which is Better for Soap Making: Refined or Unrefined Butters?
The main difference between refined and unrefined shea butter and cocoa butter lies in the processing:
- Refined Butters: These undergo a refining process which removes the natural color and aroma. This process can also strip away some nutrients. They’re ideal if you want a neutral base for your soap.
- Unrefined Butters: These are in their purest form, retaining all their natural nutrients, color, and aroma. They are typically more nourishing for the skin. However, they may also have impurities and a stronger scent.
When it comes to soap making, both refined and unrefined butters can be used, depending on your preference.
Difference Between Cosmetic Grade and Food Grade Butters
The difference between cosmetic grade and food grad butters lies in the standards they meet:
- Cosmetic Grade: These are suitable for use in skincare products, but not for consumption. They meet certain safety standards for topical use.
- Food Grade: These are safe to consume and can be used in food preparation. They meet higher safety standards and are also suitable for use in skincare products.
Some soapers prefer to use only food grade Ingredients in all of their products, while others are perfectly ok with cosmetic grade. As for me I prefer to use whichever is available most economically & sustainably and by supporting the businesses I choose to purchase from.
And if you ask me unrefined wins out over refined butter’s hands down every time. I especially love the aroma of cocoa butter in my soaps and would never ever deliberately purchase cocoa butter that had all of its yummy aroma stripped out. You can learn more about scenting soaps naturally without any essential oils over on this blog post here. Also contains a handy little guide to testing essential oil blends before you make any soap.
Shea butter and cocoa butter soap recipes
If you’re looking for some new recipes to try that use Shea butter, cocoa butter, maybe even some mango butter check out the following available here on soapy friends:
- Kandra’s magical resin Soap recipe is available in the resin class
- Kandra’s go to vegan palm free soap recipe includes a shea butter variation for a shaving soap
- And you can get the double butter recipe included in the all ways indigo master class
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