Have you ever checked on a batch of soap only to ponder “Why Did My Soap Crack”? If so, you’re not alone. This is a common issue in cold process soap making. Let’s dive into why this happens and how you can prevent it.
Cold Process Soap: Cracking from the Heat Within
When a loaf of cold processed soap cracks it’s always due to overheating. Cold process soap can overheat when the soap goes through what is called “gel phase” too quickly or at to high of a temperature.
When cold process soap overheats, it can crack on the top as the middle expands and pushes outwards. This crack allows the heat to escape through the surface of your soap. Often, the heat issues stop at the crack as enough heat was able to escape allowing the soap to cool. However, if the soap continues to heat up, your soap can bubble out of the mold like lava from a real life volcano.
Here are the factors that can cause your soap to crack:
- High temperatures: If your soap mixture or the room temperature is too high, your soap may overheat and cause the top to crack, or even the soap to volcano in the mold.
- Insulating too much: Wrapping your soap mold in towels or blankets, forcing a gel with CPOP or heating pads, can cause the soap mass to retain too much heat.
- Recipe factors: Using ingredients that naturally heat up, like honey or milk, can contribute to overheating.
Solutions to Prevent Cracking and in-the-mold Volcanoes
Let’s take a deeper look into each one of the overheating and crack causing issue above and figure out how to prevent your soap from overheating!
Keep Soaping Temperatures Low to Prevent Overheating.
If you’re wondering why your soap cracked, it’s probably the temperature. This includes the temperature of your oils, lye solution, the room temperature, and the temperature of the surface your mold is sitting on!
- For cold process soap, I typically soapy at “room temperature”. This really just means that
- my lye solution container is cool to the touch,
- I don’t heat my liquid oils,
- and hard fats are warmed just enough to be fluid.
- I keep my soaping room at about 76-78F. Any higher (for me) and some of my recipes will quickly heat up, crack, and/or volcano out of the mold. We’ll talk more about additives and formulations below.
- Keep the mold and soaping surface cold for sensitive formulations that are prone to overheating.
- I have stainless steel tables for my work surface which conducts heat (and cold). If it’s an extra sensitive recipe, I’ll put icepacks on the counter tops to cool them down, and thus cool down the soap.
- Ice packs can also be used to keep things cool on a “typical” kitchen countertop where the molds sit flat on the surface. Molds with an elevated bottom allow more airflow, and airflow helps keep things cool. You can see how I set up icepacks in the video on this article about the gel phase in cold process soap.
- Which brings me to fans! If I’m making a slab of 100% coconut oil soap (which gets really hot really fast), a fan is a must to disperse the heat generated by the slab of soap.
- And yes, if you have a refrigerator or freezer that your mold fits into, and where your soap wont be mistaken for food, and won’t come into contact with food (think overheating or spilled soap), then you can also place your mold in fridge or freezer. I’m not a huge fan of this option as I don’t like moving molds filled with soap if it can be avoided.
Recipe Factors that Can Lead to Cracked and Overheating Soap
Using ingredients that naturally heat up, like honey or milk, can contribute to overheating. And, soaps high in saturated fatty acids (fats solid at room temperature) are more prone to overheating. You could adjust your recipe, and sometimes that’s the only solution, but I would first recommend trying the temperature control tips above. If that doesn’t work, then adjust your recipe.
One example is the Whiskey Soap we made. When we added the whiskey to the batter before adding the lye solution, things got hot FAST, and we had soap on a stick. Adding the whiskey after trace helped, but it was still going to be difficult to pour a large batch of soap before it thickened up too much. So, we had to reduce the amount of whiskey in the formulation. With less whiskey, it soaped like a champ!
Here’s a list of common soapmaking ingredients that can cause your soap to overheat, along with a few additional notes about why they can cause your soap to crack from overheating:
- Sugar and anything with sugar including:
- purees
- milks
- alcohol
- aloe vera
- oats
- etc.
Here’s more information about adding food (including sugar) to your soap.
- Saturated fatty acids (solid fats)
- Coconut oil heats up very quickly!
- High water content (anything above 1.8:1 water:lye for recipes high in saturated fatty acids always overheat for me)
- Fragrances and Essential Oils (not all of them)
- Cinnamon, Clove, and other spicy essential oils speed things up. This can be a good thing if you want to accelerate trace, but keep things cool once in the mold.
- Some botanicals
- A large slab of indigo soap will need some airflow for sure.
- Some resins will also accelerate trace and can cause overheating. (see my chaparral soaps in the gallery below).
And before I wrap this up, here are a few examples from me and other Soapy Friends of some overheated cracked soap!

This one made me laugh so much! It’s my chaparral soap, made for the first time in my new soap room. It took some time getting used to soaping in a new space after 10 years in my old space! You can see the ice packs that I set up around the molds as the soap was crawling out of the pipe molds.

Here are some of pipes the next day. They settled back into their pipes a bit, and unmolded just fine.
I didn’t alter my formulation for this recipe, but I did alter my process to soap a bit cooler (I let the heat generated from saponification melt the hard fats), and I always start out with icepacks to avoid the “lip stick” loafs!

Another pipe mold from soapy friend Heike Koester. Pipe molds have less surface area (only the top of the cylinder vs the entire top of a slab mold) and thus can be more prone to overheating.
Keep your pipes a few inches apart, and leverage icepacks or fans to help prevent the soap from cracking.

Bee (@keepitsimpleyeah on instagram) shared this beauty where the overheating was a result of soaping too hot. She used turmeric for color and scented with peppermint and rosemary essential oils

Look closely at the black loaf in this one and you’ll see the emergence of some baby volcanos happening! Ham N. S. over in our Facebook group, made both loafs from the same batter where the lye was used while still piping hot. This caused acceleration before being poured, and continued to overheat in the mold.

All of the interesting cracks on the top were from oatmeal and goats milk (high sugar content all around). The formulation was a first try for soapy friend Lidya T. and next round she’s going to cold insulate either by using ice packs or popping the loaf into the refrigerator.

This last photo is a rebatch of an oatmeal soap that had a little in-the-mold-volcano on a hot summer day years ago. The original soaps were set up in pipe molds and nearly all 200 of the soaps were effected by the rapid overheating due to the uncharacteristically warm ambient temperature.
I was able to save about 30% of the soaps at the bottom of the molds. About 15% of the soap ended up on the floor and had to be salted out to be saved (I had enough laundry soap for a year after that!). The rest of the soap was rebatched into these oatmeal and rose soaps. They were a huge hit and one of my favorite rebatching saves ever.
Here’s some more information about salting out soap and rebatching… just incase you have a soap that needs some saving!
Remember, soap making is both an art and a science. Sometimes, despite our best efforts, soap will do its own thing. Cracks and volcanoes don’t mean failure; they’re just part of the soap making adventure. Your soap is still clean, safe, and ready to lather up!
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